Throughout the tour, Candamil draws on his memories growing up in the market, first watching his father and then working there in his youth as a carretillero, a cargo porter who steers upright wooden carts with produce through its narrow aisles.
—
Nikkita Nair,
Condé Nast Traveler,
7 Oct. 2026
Served from silver gueridon carts was prime rib, Dover sole meunière, and avocado crab Louis.
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